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Smack Down
5.13a,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.4 from 13
votes
FA: Mark Stevenson
In Progress
> S Side Crags (C…
> Area 51 (CLOSED)
Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED
Details
7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.
Description
Stick clip, campus up bad rock and do a strange mantle move to gain the first bolt. Perform some tricky moves to gain an improbable unicorn horn.
After a couple of easy bolts comes the best rock and the most fun. Do a leftward traverse with an awesome reverse rose move, and gain a huge incut jug. The following pounce is the crux, but keep it together for a nice edging/traversing sequence to gain the upper face. Enjoy the cool swirly holds at the last bolt, and pull the last long moves to the anchor.
This a really nice route - consistently great movement, mostly good rock, and likely a bit soft for tall folk. It's slightly off the beaten path, but well worth it.
Location
Far right of Area 51. Ascends the rightmost fringe of the amphitheater beyond the Waco not Hueco area. Left of the route V.D. (12c) and Stays in Vegas (12a).
Protection
Bolts to two-bolt anchor.
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Currently Charlotte
Then the match begins.
The rad reverse-rose is the move. Took me a bit to figure that out, but then you get to the huck jug. Boom your way up to the good jug edge. Then the pump sets in. Book it hard left and crimp your way up to the big stand up move. Ignore the tree behind ya. Its all clear.
Beta: bring ARMS and Boook Jul 2, 2018
St. Louis, MO
--The other side of “likely a bit soft for tall folk” is “likely borderline impossible for short folk.” I’ve seen several 13+ climbers get completely shut down by the straightforward crux dyno. The jump feels roughly comparable to V5/6 dynos I’ve done, and it’s a big advantage to have enough wingspan to keep your left hand on the lower jug when you latch the target jug. (It’s also one of the most fun moves ever. When you stick it, you will feel like Chris Sharma for those fleeting seconds . . . )
--Having said that, it is possible to do the crux without jumping. I’ve seen it done with a figure-4, and equipper Jim Woodruff tells me that this was in fact the original beta when the route was first tried many moon ago (though it’s still helpful to have a long reach this way). It’s also possible to use the heinous intermediate crimps, but much harder that way.
--You can get a hands-free kneebar or stem rest before the rose move and the jump. My legs were a bit long for the kneebar but I found a couple minutes of stemming to be pretty comfortable, though strenuous on the left hip. Get your left foot on the big flat hold and scooch your right hip deep into the corner feature.
--If you have a long reach (6’2’’+ish), consider skipping the rose move. It’s pretty cool, but probably easier to go jug to jug (via a big iron cross) if you can.
--IMO this breaks down roughly as 5.12- into V6 into 5.11+ and is deserving of 5.13a. Mar 18, 2019