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Routes in Strawberry Peak

"Godzilla's Revenge" T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1968
Page Views: 374 total · 29/month
Shared By: Keith Leaman on Apr 29, 2017
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

The roof on the first pitch is the physical crux. The remaining run out pitches on sometimes friable rock was the emotional crux.

Location [Edit]

The photo of Ray is the first pitch. In general we tried to climb the longest section of rock.

Protection [Edit]

This was done pre-cams, or nuts. We used pitons, swamis, Kronhoffers and didn't place any bolts, but I have read recently that bolts have since been placed on the first pitch.

Photos

Kevin Mokracek
Burbank
  5.10b/c R
Kevin Mokracek   Burbank
  5.10b/c R
Climbed the first pitch yesterday. The crack in the picture, both the dihedral and the roof crack are now choked with plants and dirt and plants requiring extensive gardening. We were also surprised to find bolts on this route now protecting the entire first pitch though at least 2 were damaged from rockfall. Also there is a rap station about mid pitch off to the right that has one of the hangers completely smashed flat from rockfall. Wear a helmet, this face is extremely loose with lots of evidence of fresh rockfall. I had a large toaster sized rock break off in my hand on the first pitch smashing my knee and cutting it pretty good. Aside from all that it's a pretty cool wall with lots of potential especially if you are just doing one pitch routes, generally speaking the higher you go the worse the rock gets but there are nice sections of superb granite. BTW, the first pitch is not 5.9, it's at least 5.9c or d. LOL. Feb 14, 2018
Keith Leaman  
 
Kevin,
Thanks for the corrections and excellent photos! After about fifty years, I wasn't exactly certain of the route's precise location, hoping that someone could contribute, as you have. We did a couple of other variations to the right of what Ray called that "Goose neck" corner on the first pitch. Those variations also had lots of loose rock with occasional solid sections. We didn't bolt anything back then which made the climbing even more challenging, and climbed a few times in the winter hoping that would improve stability - with limited success. I wouldn't be surprised if the hardest moves were 5.10, since we were reluctant to rate anything over .9 back then. No surprises that rockfall would damage the bolts. Feb 16, 2018
Kevin Mokracek
Burbank
  5.10b/c R
Kevin Mokracek   Burbank
  5.10b/c R
Keith,
I figured your picture of the route was an approximation, my route diagram is an approximation of the route after the first pitch since we rapped off after that. I did a route on the right side back in the early 90's but have no idea now where it was, it's a pretty complex face with lots of route potential depending on the level of risk to are willing to take. I remember the last pitch being protected by one small nut that probably would not have held a fall. I'm not as willing these days to accept that risk. There is a nice section at the base in the middle of the wall that my partner and I thought looked a lot like the base of Middle Cathedral apron, the rock was very solid and have the potential for several one to two pitch slab routes at a very high grade. That alone may draw me back to put up a few more routes. First I need to get a good approach dialed in, we bush whacked for two hours from Camp Colby. I think the trail from Hwy 2 would be faster even if it's a little longer. My partner will probably post a TR on Supertopo so keep an eye out there. Feb 16, 2018

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