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Tears of a Clown

5.7, Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Montana > Northwest Region > N Fork Teton Ri… > Tears of a Clown area

Description

There is an optional 5.9 start on the steep bolted face right out of the bank of the river. Balance on flakes to gain the slab then follow run out cold shuts to a set of anchors. There are anchors at the end of the 5.9 section, but it is better to run past them to the next set 90ft up. Next pitch traverse under the roof for 100' to a single cold shut below two roofs. Belay from this easy ground for the next pitch. that goes through both roofs (or around if you want to keep it at 5.7). The second roof is very stout for a 5.7. It goes at 5.9+ with a pretty heady move pulling the roof with a sloping mantle move above the bolt. The route is pretty consistent slab climbing after the roof for another two pitches. The climbing is pretty easy but the 15'-20' between bolts will keep your excitement high. The views are incredible and the belays spots are pretty good.
Walk off the route up and right at last anchor. Follow a gulley down to the base. If rappelling you will need two 60m ropes.

Location

Start is obvious, Pool of water near old creek bed. To skip 5.9 start go right around the base and up a gully directly to the ramp.

Protection

Up to 12 quickdraws if you are going to combine pitches.
Belay anchors are cold shut eye bolts.
Bolts between anchors are sportingly spaced.
Don't cam the flake on the first 5.9 alternate start. It the only good hold on that face!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from the top is quite stunning.
[Hide Photo] View from the top is quite stunning.
Top of third pitch. Slab for days above.
[Hide Photo] Top of third pitch. Slab for days above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I climbed this a couple weeks ago. Fun climb and a nice setting. A few remarks:

1. If you go by the anchors and count the easy traverse after the first pitch as its own pitch, there are 6 pitches.

2. The bolt protecting the second (and hard) roof on P3 was loose. I don't mean it was just spinning, it was actually loose to the point that I could have removed it by hand. I tightened it as much as I could by hand since I did not have a tool to do a proper job of it.

3. If the second roof on P3 is too stout or intimidating, look off to the right. A bolt protects a much easier pull onto the overlap, and then another bolt protects a diagonal line to the anchors. That is probably the way to safely keep things at 5.7. Jul 29, 2018