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Routes in Tears of a Clown area

Chert on my shirt S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cherty Business S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cherty Kurty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sixth Times the Charm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tears of a Clown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 546 total · 39/month
Shared By: Brian Thompson on Apr 27, 2017
Admins: grk10vq

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Description [Suggest Change]

There is an optional 5.9 start on the steep bolted face right out of the bank of the river. Balance on flakes to gain the slab then follow run out cold shuts to a set of anchors. There are anchors at the end of the 5.9 section, but it is better to run past them to the next set 90ft up. Next pitch traverse under the roof for 100' to a single cold shut below two roofs. Belay from this easy ground for the next pitch. that goes through both roofs (or around if you want to keep it at 5.7). The second roof is very stout for a 5.7. It goes at 5.9+ with a pretty heady move pulling the roof with a sloping mantle move above the bolt. The route is pretty consistent slab climbing after the roof for another two pitches. The climbing is pretty easy but the 15'-20' between bolts will keep your excitement high. The views are incredible and the belays spots are pretty good.
Walk off the route up and right at last anchor. Follow a gulley down to the base. If rappelling you will need two 60m ropes.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start is obvious, Pool of water near old creek bed. To skip 5.9 start go right around the base and up a gully directly to the ramp.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Up to 12 quickdraws if you are going to combine pitches.
Belay anchors are cold shut eye bolts.
Bolts between anchors are sportingly spaced.
Don't cam the flake on the first 5.9 alternate start. It the only good hold on that face!

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