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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 4. Lower Cathedral Spire
Hail To The Chief
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A3 R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in 4. Lower Cathedral Spire
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Hail To The Chief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Northeast Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route - Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South by Southwest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: |
Trad, Aid, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade V
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | 2016 Steve Bosque, Kevin DeWeese |
| Page Views: | 1,621 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin DeWeese on Apr 27, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
New Aid route on West Face of Lower Cathedral Spire
- Update: Route has been FFA'd May 11th, 2017, I will update the pitches with their free climbing rating as I receive the info from the party. Route goes at 5.11 with free variation starting from ledge at top of pitch 7 to the summit*
Located on the West Face of Lower Cathedral Spire. Follow approach for Higher Spire. Start is located in an obvious corner to the left of obvious fractured roof system.
Rack:
Triples of normal free rack to 3" doubles to 4.5" one 5" (offsets useful as always)
nuts and micronuts
one each hooks
a few blades
4 each beaks all three sizes
a few arrows
rivet hangars
Pitch 1: 5.9 130' , cams to 3"
vertical thin hands 5.9 for 80'
Grovel and fifth class to flake on right or
corner on left to tree 40'
C1 or 5.9 130' Anchor off tree
Pitch 2 5.6 A1 ~ 80' (or 5.10-)
Fifth class up and right to thin cams and nailing traverse to finger to hand sized cams to large belay ledge,
Pitch 3 C2 ~100' (or 5.11-)
C1 right leaning crack to trees, tree climbing to hollow crack section followed by awkward C2 crack system
Pitch 4 100' C1 (or 5.10)
Mostly medium to large cams (up to Bdel #6) two hand placed beaks at end
Follow corner through a few small ledges and nooks before two five piece bit bolts at ledge
Sharp edge below belay be careful when jugging/hauling
Pitch 5 A1 ~120' (or 5.11)
Continues up corner small cams, nuts and nailing into larger cams before completing corner system.
Pitch 6 A2 ~140' (or 5.9+ variation - traverse right from belay around the corner using new freeclimbing protection bolt that's been added before rejoining aid route)
Thin nailing up rightward arching seam to 1/4" bolt, penji off bolt around corner to slabby fifth class free and hooking (large fall potential as you can't place gear or else rope drag is unmanageable) to hand-size cams to dface and crack to stance belay on small bushy ledge.
Pitch 7 5.5 A1/C2 ~ 100' (5.7fuzzywuzzy)
Free and C1 up ramp around right side, nailing up rotten crack/corner to single bolt belay with gear. (Alt free direction, turns left up slab and dihedral with some suspect rock to 2 bolt anchor. (Hauling should be done from this anchor)
Pitch 8 C2 120' (Free route diverges from aid line from this ledge to move left onto headwall face toward obvious wide climbing at 5.11 to the summit.)
Start up wall heading right on rotten rock towards a upward right traverse to awesome ledge. 60m rap to top of pitch 6 belay if retreating. (Crappy jug and rap from ledge)
Pitch 9 A3r 150'
Mid to small cams and thin iron, beaks mostly and rivets (skull and bones) 9 rivets 1 quarter inch bolt.
Two life-enders on this pitch: a large flake held by a cam before traverse and the Trump flake over belay that cracked when we climbed through it (van sized flake) Be gentle on this pitch or bring a stick clip to reach the rivet we used to get away from the impending doom that flake seemed intent on providing.
Pitch 10 A2r ~90'
Thin to fist sized cams off the belay to thin iron and cams, traverse to rivets to thin iron to belay
Pitch 11 A1
Last pitch follows crack then rivets then tension then rivet from small ledge. Loose death block to right of small ledge, use rivet to reach seam to dynamic cam throw into crack above loose block. Flaring chimney groove that sucks then fifth class blocks and sweet handcrack finish. Anchor from #3 Camelot crack. Bolts are to the left on edge of summit above Pitch 10 anchor. Obviously watch for rope drag on pitch and save #3 cams (rap route for descent is on another section of the spire to the right of top out)
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