Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Buffalo Crag

Apple Crumble T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Autumn Finale T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Boa Constrictor T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calhoun T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cedar T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dodger, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dune T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Durley's Return T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
End Game T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Kiwi T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrel T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Thumb T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jetsum T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Orange Wall T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Orc T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pickle Puss T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Piece of Duff T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ramble T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Reservoir T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spurbur T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sting, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Super Duper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thin Series T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Veg T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Yoyo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: 1960s
Page Views: 111 total, 14/month
Shared By: Stephen None on Apr 27, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A wide crack / chimney (depending on the dimensions of the climber) that goes 2/3 of the way up the cliff. It is sitting in a corner allowing for lots of stemming if you want to stay out of the crack, or right side in if you want to try your hand at off-width movements. You can climb the entire route outside of the crack, but where is the fun in that?

This route is quite popular, so get there early in the day if you don't want to line-up.

Location

It is around the first "corner" after you head to climber's left from the down climb. It is quite distinctive as this is the only wide crack in this area.

Protection

The guide book says there is good gear, but if you have an escarpment rack the chances are you will need to hunt around for smaller placements further in the crack or on the surrounding faces.

There are glue-in anchors at the top of the cliff, but they are about 1.5m from the edge so bring a long cordlette or some double length slings.

Photos

0 Comments