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One Scoop Please

5.10a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 15 votes
FA: unknown
California > High Desert > Apple Valley Area > Horsemen's Center > Keepers Cove > Dancing Deuces Pillar

Description

A short vertical face down low leads into a scooped-out area and then finishes up a less-than-vertical face for a few bolts to anchors.

There are several ways to do the crux but the easiest seems to be a stem or chimney against the back wall in the scooped-out area.

Location

The left route on the formation.

Protection

7 bolts, ring anchors w/ mussys (shared with Two Face)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The starting sequence
[Hide Photo] The starting sequence

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Bohm
Claremont, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Pulled not one, but two holds off today. Still lots of good holds available and I think the climb still goes at 10a, but be careful on this one...Climb is fun and worth doing, but the rock is a bit crumbly in places. With some more traffic it will clean up nicely. Nov 12, 2020
Clif Clap
 
[Hide Comment] Just went direct and didn’t backstep or chimney using the rock behind in the scoop section. Some very thin pulling and very smeary feet. Reachy too. At least 10c this way and felt damn near 11a, no joke.

The holds are there to go this way. Maybe the chimney version is fun but felt pure sticking just to the face. Mar 3, 2022