Avg: 3.5 from 4
votes
The IMAX Experience is the proud wide crack that splits the steep north face of IMAX Tower. An exceptional backcountry adventure: exciting climbing on outlandish Coconino sandstone with nobody in sight. The three-dimensional features are just as wild as they look from a distance - enjoy them with a sprinkling of caution. The first ascent was done onsight ground-up with minimal cleaning, so it may have an extra adventurous feel.
Be aware of the risk/commitment factor: IMAX Tower is located in a seldom-traveled part of Sedona, and there is no fixed anchor until the top.
Pitch 1: (5.7) Scramble up a chossy 4th-class staircase to gain a major ledge 25 feet off the ground. This is a good place to build a starting anchor (small cams in dihedral) and rope up. Traverse left onto the slab past one bolt. Gear belay on the huge ledge below the main chimney system.
Pitch 2: (5.8+) Head straight up into the featured chimney, passing a crux bulge early. Gear belay on one of many Floating Platforms when you finally reach the alcove directly below the big roof.
Pitch 3: (5.10-) Wild! Use the Floating Platforms to climb out to the lip of the massive roof. Crank over the lip, continue up a quality patina handcrack and mantel more Floating Platforms into a nook inside a short cubic alcove. Gear belay using small stuff on either side of the big block (candidate for a bolted anchor if this route ever sees traffic).
Pitch 4: (5.10) Climb out the short easy chimney to a sloping ledge where the crack jogs left about ten feet. Stem/squeeze up a funtime flare to a severely undercut shelf that is surmounted using patina holds and much grunting. Continue up the wide crack to a platform just below the summit. Walk 20 feet right along this ledge and belay from the two-bolt chain anchor.
Rappel: One great big 190-foot free-hanging rappel back down the north face all the way to the dirt. You will not touch the wall for a looong way down. Admire the wicked sandstone features as you spin around in space.
Double set cams to 4” + one each 5-6” cams + two 60m ropes
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Such an awesome climb. P3 was the most bewildering climbing experience! P4 was superb too!
Was very happy to have both a 5 and 6. Grading felt spot on.
Excited to climb it again. Apr 26, 2020
Nevada
Boots: the approach is super heinous, no doubt! Props for toughing it out. Thanks for confirming the rap length. You didn’t happen to record pitch lengths, did you? Keep getting after it Boots you’ve been crushing! May 31, 2021
1- 20' (vertical. Probably more like 40 horizontally)
2- 45' to first, best, and most obvious floating platform (belay takes a nice .5 and .75)
3- 55'
4- 60' (as soon as you come out of the spooky belay chimney, take that ledge left. Wide to the top. Dont wear shorts)
We had about 20' of tail on the ground on our double 60m rap lines
We got suckered onto another trail at the saddle. Seemed to become more of a deer trail and ended up taking us past the cliff. Seems it is steep and loose no matter which way you move towards the tower. But I would recommend trying to follow cairns. As soon as you are on the saddle, take a right towards the cliff. You should see the wire fence immediately. Then hug the cliff. Like close enough to touch it. From there I wish you luck. Dont seek out sweet adventures if you dont want the things that come along with it. Jun 1, 2021