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Routes in The Thumb Nail

Cuticle Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lightly Seasoned T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Cass Bindrup, Charles Nolt
Page Views: 190 total, 27/month
Shared By: Cass Bindrup on Apr 25, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1: Starts up the right facing corner/dihedral, to the ledge holding the large, cracked right-leaning block. Reach high or climb overhung hands and protect high up in the crack on the right side of the pilar (squeezes down from hands .3s)pull around the pilar on some crystals and slab out onto the face. A series of unprotected slab moves constitute a no fall zone. Be sure to protect for your second above the slab and step right around the flake into the chimney to reach the anchors.
P2: Climb the hand,fist squeeze chimney. Requires some groveling. Summit rolls off the flat build belay in wide crack systems. Rap anchors located up and right. Slung chicken-head and 1 bolt. Single rap to ground. 60 or 70.

Location

Located on the Thumbnail-large spherical buttress just above (Northwest) the summit pitch of the Thumb. Approach via the thumb. Once the summit pitch is reached scramble uphill and skirt the east side of the feature until the obvious leaning A-frame block. Alternate approach via plumbline gully involves some 5th class scrambling.

Protection

Single Rack. Some wide gear for 2nd pitch. Feel free to add a bolt on the slab, otherwise run it out!

Photos

Cass Bindrup
Salt Lake City
 
Cass Bindrup   Salt Lake City
 
I don't know how to use the internet. Oct 16, 2017