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Statler-Waldorf Route

5.10, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 1.2 from 18 votes
FA: Kristen Fiore, Kyle Abrams, April 15
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > Upper West > B - Upper Tier - Left…
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Description

A radventure of broken holds and crumbly choss.

Climb a steep section to a high first bolt. A stick clip may be necessary for those weary at the grade. Pull higher on good holds to reach easier ground. Romp ahead through a small runout (5.4) to a stance below a vertical face. Make delicate moves past a small runout (hollow rock prevented a bolt from being placed) before reaching big flakes and a fun layback feature to the top with a two-bolt anchor.

Numerous holds have broken... this is likely 5.10 now. Admittedly this may be the worst route I've ever bolted. Enjoy?

Location

10 feet right of Corkscrew. The first line of bolts when hiking to the South End from the main trail junction.

Protection

Bolts. Two-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tyler pulling on the crux start.
[Hide Photo] Tyler pulling on the crux start.
From above.
[Hide Photo] From above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

june m
elmore, vt
 
[Hide Comment] I top roped it years before it was bolted and decided it wasn't worthy. One day I came back and saw bolts. My partner decided to lead it and ripped a hold off at the 2nd clip and took a ground fall. My geuss is it will be 5.12 when all the choss is gone. It was originally 5.8 Sep 30, 2018
Kristen Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] The funniest thing about this route is the number of one star or bomb ratings and the massive number of ticks. Are people just curious?? Oct 25, 2019
Derek Doucet
[Hide Comment] The more pertinent question is how many have climbed it twice... Oct 25, 2019
Kristen Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] HA! Derek that is an excellent point. Oct 25, 2019
june m
elmore, vt
 
[Hide Comment] Guilty, 3 times, on a quest for the worst choss in vt. Maybe I have a bad memory. Sep 12, 2020
Calvin Lee
Bristol, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Most of the loose rock is gone except for some big scary ones on the upper flakes, but those holds are easy to avoid. Tread carefully. The whole bottom section seemed super solid to me and was pretty fun. I thought it was harder than 10b but I've never climbed here before so I'm hesitant to suggest a grade... edit: I changed my mind 10b sounds totally fair. Maybe I had forgotten what 5.10 feels like Jul 9, 2021
Connor FM
Bowlder, CO
[Hide Comment] Mad props to Statler and Waldorph for the vision of this line, as no one in their right mind back in the day would’ve thought this climbable. A bold lead for it’s time, since the bolts on the upper half are mainly there to keep the giant flakes attached to the wall, this route is a Bolton classic with memorable climbing. Although it will clean up with traffic, I would climb it while you still can. Jul 3, 2022
Ryan DeLena
Sudbury MA / Bar Harbor ME
  5.10b/c PG13
[Hide Comment] For what it’s worth I thought this was a pretty rad climb. A cool and engaging crux, and really fun jug movement up high. You do need to be mindful toward the second to last bolt not to reef on anything too hard, as the top of the flake is fragile. Wouldn’t recommend as your first 5.10, but if you climb at the grade, definitely give this one a burn. Apr 27, 2024