WI3 M4 Steep Snow
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m)|
|FA:||M.Moser & R.Shore 4/20/17|
|Page Views:||1,778 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on Apr 24, 2017|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
The route consists of mostly 40-65 degree snow (hero neve, as we found it) separated by some pitches of more technical terrain. A long steep snow and ice (WI2) ramp leads to the first constriction and crux: a verglassed bombay chimney-to-fist crack with a thin ice flow on the right side (M4; the thin ribbon itself may be fully climbable in the right conditions). Another snow ramp separates it from two pitches of moderate but thin ice above (WI3 + M2). The final steep snow gully is quite long and leads to two pitches of slabby, mixed rock and snow (5.5 - M2ish) which head up and left to the summit of the Bastille Buttress. The rock walls on the side of the gully take decent gear for most of the route.
We descended the lower portion of LPP's north ridge using a combination of downclimbing and rappelling from trees. Winter conditions can make this descent as exciting as the climb itself. Come prepared with some bail slings and plan to carry everything up and over with you. Alternatively, one may continue up the ridge to the "standard" Bastille Buttress descent gully, but take caution - that gully can be avalanche prone in winter.