Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lone Pine Peak

Bastille Buttress - Bad Hombres T WI3 M4 Steep Snow
Bastille Buttress - Beckey Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bastille Buttress - Papillon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Direct South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
Michael Strassman Memorial Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mountain Devil Dike T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
NE Ridge (full) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Winter Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft
FA: M.Moser & R.Shore 4/20/17
Page Views: 453 total · 45/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Apr 24, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

Bad Hombres climbs the narrow snow and ice gully that splits the right flank of the Bastille Buttress. A worthwhile romp if you can catch it in the right conditions, which can prove tricky given its low elevation and eastern sun exposure. We probably missed ideal conditions by a few days or just a week in mid April after a huge snow year in the Sierra Nevada. Scope the route from the Whitney Portal Road and watch the forecasted temps. Climb early, climb fast, and respect the desert alpine!

The route consists of mostly 40-65 degree snow (hero neve, as we found it) separated by some pitches of more technical terrain. A long steep snow and ice (WI2) ramp leads to the first constriction and crux: a verglassed bombay chimney-to-fist crack with a thin ice flow on the right side (M4; the thin ribbon itself may be fully climbable in the right conditions). Another snow ramp separates it from two pitches of moderate but thin ice above (WI3 + M-easy). The final steep snow gully is quite long and leads to two pitches of slabby, mixed rock and snow which head up and left to the summit of the Bastille Buttress. The rock walls on the side of the gully take decent gear for most of the route.

We descended the lower portion of LPP's north ridge using a combination of downclimbing and rappelling from trees. Winter conditions can make this descent as exciting as the climb itself. Come prepared with some bail slings and plan to carry everything up and over with you. Alternatively, one may continue up the ridge to the "standard" Bastille Buttress descent gully, but take caution - that gully is avalanche prone in winter.

Protection

Single rack of nuts and cams to 4", 3-4 short/med ice screws.

0 Comments

More About Bastille Buttress - Bad Hombres

Printer-Friendly Guide