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Screaming Dick

5.12a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
California > Northwest Calif… > Cecilville Bluffs > 6. Chronic Wall

Description

Great variety on beautiful stone on the left side of the Chronic wall. Find your way up some jugs the work some good holds under the left side of the roof. Just over the top are some holds good enough to awkwardly pull the lip and continue to the top. There is a middle anchor at 75' or continue to the top for full value.

Location

The obvious boltline going up the left side of the chronic wall as you approach. The first line about 30' left of chronic.

Protection

11 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Screaming Dick
[Hide Photo] Screaming Dick
Look close and you'll see Wyat pulling the roof
[Hide Photo] Look close and you'll see Wyat pulling the roof

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Wisheropp
  5.12a PG13
[Hide Comment] I followed the route and am really glad I wasn’t the one hanging draws. Some of that bolt spacing is pretty messed up. Despite how steep it gets in places, there is still definite potential for some gnarly (ouch ouch) falls. Nov 17, 2019
Greg Lee
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] After the last bolt before the first anchor, I followed the chalk way right through some jugs and through a bush. Is that off route? It seems like there's a way to stay more in line between that last bolt and the first anchor, but I couldn't find it onsight. Jun 4, 2022
Evan Wisheropp
  5.12a PG13
[Hide Comment] Greg, I think that's what I did. I recall having that confusion as well. Jun 17, 2022
Jake Regi
Carson City
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Absolutely classic. Wandering climbing up amazing features to a sustained section pulling over the roof. For the last bolt runout I went out right and up on humongous jugs to the anchor (I removed the bush). If you got through the roof section a fall from here is unlikely and this thing is so steep you wouldn’t hit anything but air. I would add that due to the wondering nature and steepness of this climb you will need a follower to clean your draws. It would help if the last 4 bolts had fixed draws. Mar 17, 2024