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Routes in 18 - Le Fou

Boeing S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coeur Vaillant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracker Joe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exacto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Krakatoa S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Centenaire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lollypops S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maudit fou T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twins Tower Nord S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: André Laperrière and José Dionisio (June, 1995)
Page Views: 171 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jerome St-Michel on Apr 23, 2017
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: Access fees required Details

Description

An esthetic finger crack that has a short but pumpy crux. Either gun it with spicy moves above gear or fight the pump to put intermediate gear in.

Start right underneath the crack with kinda bouldery moves to get good fingerlocks. Place some bomber nuts and traverse right as the crack goes. There are good placements but feets are quite poor, make choices before you leave the ground :p.

After the traverse reestablish yourself on good holds, place gear and finish on the easing crack.

Location

Follow signs for "Le Fou" area. As soon as the trail hits the cliff you will be facing the line.

Protection

to Camalot #1 with some nuts. Fixed anchor.

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