Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Collins, Surface
Page Views: 232 total · 11/month
Shared By: Andrew Vinzant on Apr 18, 2017 with updates from Zane Winter
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Stick clip, then execute a strange technical sequence on sugary rock to jugs and a second bolt. A powerful jug-to-jug deadpoint gains the third bolt and a good rest. Execute a V4 boulder problem and mantle over a ledge into a no-hands rest. Solve two more short problems separated by a ledge. Were this route not interrupted by two no-hands rests, it would be 4 stars and one of the best routes in the state. 

Location

Between Chief Monegaw (roof route without the chain) and resistance (leftmost route with arête finish). 

Protection

QD's

Photos

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Ulises Garcia
Kansas City, MO
  5.11d
Ulises Garcia   Kansas City, MO
  5.11d
IMO best moves on the wall. Little bit of power, Little bit of tech, little bit of choss and nice rests too. Fun! May 10, 2017
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
  5.12a
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
  5.12a
So good. Consistently hard, with an eye-popping V4 boulder problem after the third clip. Hard for the grade? My redpoint was after a hold is said to have broken in the crux. Although I can't speak to the relative difficulty of the crux now vs. then, I felt the line deserved a bump to 5.12a. Mar 8, 2018
David John
Kansas City
David John   Kansas City
A key hold broke off yesterday (10/18/2018) near the top of route on the slabby boulder problem after the standing ledge. The hold ripping off revealed a deep jug-pocket but a few inches higher and a few inches farther away. It's still very doable but maybe a bit more height dependent. Probably bumps it from a slash grade to a solid 11d. Oct 19, 2018