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Routes in Ourania

Captain Caveman S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ourania S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Star Wars S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: M. Piola
Page Views: 42 total, 6/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Apr 18, 2017
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

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The crag's namesake is the classic line in the cave. If you have warmed up on the routes to the right with dubious rock you will now be rewarded with wonderful climbing on steep tufas and pods.

Ourania's difficulty kicks in right from the bottom with a tricky sapping single tufa and long moves before the angle lessens slightly and the climbing becomes more devious with the proper sequence and technique allowing efficient passage to the upper section of the climb.

Now that you have passed the steep tufa challenge and middle sequence prepare for a true punch in the gut as the crux comes right at the chains.

Ourania is a true power endurance test piece - Do this climb!


Just left of the large bouldered right in the middle of the cave and to the right of Terra Incognita - 5.12a, which climbs the steep roof to corner.


Bolts to lower-offs.


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Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
If you make your way to the chains you will notice a circuitous skip of the crux out to the right, and thus the 5.13a/b rating is suggested. You're just cheating yourself if you opt for the right trending alternate finish, but the chalk tells the tale that many go this way.

In all truth either way makes for a good climb. Apr 18, 2017