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Shithouse Rat
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Southwest Corner
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Bat Shit Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Birthday Pickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bolder Problem in Space (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Boulder Problem in the Sky T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Golden Showers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Great Gig in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hanging Gardens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hard Up for Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lopper, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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S.O.S. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shithouse Rat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Under the Big-Top T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vaporizer, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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White Powder T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Nathan Brown, Tom Caldwell |
| Page Views: | 971 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Apr 17, 2017 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system
Details
All routes between and including Southwest Arete to Mainline are closed. fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
Description
Another dry addition to the Boulder Problem area. This route is engaging and pumpy with some good stances in between.
Start at the ramp to the Vaporizer. Move up the ramp briefly and follow the right facing flake system to a mini roof. Trend up and left on horizontals to a bolt. Move up and right onto the ledge. You can sling the bushes out left long on this ledge if you feel uncertain reaching the next bolt. Follow steep climbing past a bolt and a tricky mantle. Pull out of the roof onto the thin face past two more bolts, don't pump out! Figure out the boulder problem to get past the last bolt. Move up the right side of the thin face to a series of horizontals. Save some medium sized pro (.5 to 1 camalot) as you move up and left. Once you are level with the Vaporizer anchors, move directly left to them. The anchors have been updated with some quicklinks.
Start at the ramp to the Vaporizer. Move up the ramp briefly and follow the right facing flake system to a mini roof. Trend up and left on horizontals to a bolt. Move up and right onto the ledge. You can sling the bushes out left long on this ledge if you feel uncertain reaching the next bolt. Follow steep climbing past a bolt and a tricky mantle. Pull out of the roof onto the thin face past two more bolts, don't pump out! Figure out the boulder problem to get past the last bolt. Move up the right side of the thin face to a series of horizontals. Save some medium sized pro (.5 to 1 camalot) as you move up and left. Once you are level with the Vaporizer anchors, move directly left to them. The anchors have been updated with some quicklinks.
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