Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Nathan Brown, Tom Caldwell
Page Views: 211 total · 10/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Apr 17, 2017
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Another dry addition to the Boulder Problem area. This route is engaging and pumpy with some good stances in between.

Start at the ramp to the Vaporizer. Move up the ramp briefly and follow the right facing flake system to a mini roof. Trend up and left on horizontals to a bolt. Move up and right onto the ledge. You can sling the bushes out left long on this ledge if you feel uncertain reaching the next bolt. Follow steep climbing past a bolt and a tricky mantle. Pull out of the roof onto the thin face past two more bolts, don't pump out! Figure out the boulder problem to get past the last bolt. Move up the right side of the thin face to a series of horizontals. Save some medium sized pro (.5 to 1 camalot) as you move up and left. Once you are level with the Vaporizer anchors, move directly left to them. The anchors have been updated with some quicklinks.

Location

Just right of the Vaporizer and left of Under the Big-Top. Look for the slab ramp against that wall that has a right facing flake about 10' up.

Protection

Blue TCU to #2 camalot and 5 bolts. Use the Vaporizer anchors to get down with a single 60m.

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