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> (a) Great White
Eyrily Hanging Out
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in (a) Great White
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Acid Test S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Air Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Chalk Addiction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eyrily Hanging Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fun Run T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Logan's Run S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shadowlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Test of the Ironman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vigorous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wings of Desire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 105 ft |
| FA: | Pete Shackleton 1990 |
| Page Views: | 360 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Hans on Apr 17, 2017 |
| Admins: | Sean Godwin, Kate Lynn |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Eyrily Hanging Out is one of a small number of excellent traditional climbs at Skaha, and is highly recommended.
Scramble up to the top of a pedestal and then climb the finger crack through a short crux section (~5.10c). A lower angled crack leads easily to the roofs, which are bypassed to the right via laybacks, underclings, and face holds.
There is a two bolt rappel anchor on a ledge midway through the roofs. I stopped here and was able to reach the ground with a 70m rope. I'm not sure if a 60m would have made it. Based on the presence of lichen and minimal chalk above, I suspect most people finish the climb here also.
To this point, the climbing through the roofs is probably not more than 5.10a, and so by stopping at this anchor the climb is nowhere near as difficult as the 5.11a rating it gets in the guidebook.
It's possible to continue through the final roof to the top of the wall, and I suspect the true crux is this final roof section.
Scramble up to the top of a pedestal and then climb the finger crack through a short crux section (~5.10c). A lower angled crack leads easily to the roofs, which are bypassed to the right via laybacks, underclings, and face holds.
There is a two bolt rappel anchor on a ledge midway through the roofs. I stopped here and was able to reach the ground with a 70m rope. I'm not sure if a 60m would have made it. Based on the presence of lichen and minimal chalk above, I suspect most people finish the climb here also.
To this point, the climbing through the roofs is probably not more than 5.10a, and so by stopping at this anchor the climb is nowhere near as difficult as the 5.11a rating it gets in the guidebook.
It's possible to continue through the final roof to the top of the wall, and I suspect the true crux is this final roof section.
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