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> (a) Great White
Eyrily Hanging Out
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 8
votes
Routes in (a) Great White
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Acid Test S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Air Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Air Test (start) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Breakfast of Champions S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chalk Addiction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dryathlon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eyrily Hanging Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fun Run T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gang Bang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hogopogo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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In the Skin of a Lion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Logan's Run S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Motel of Lost Companions S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mrs. Palmer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Painted Bird S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pressure Test S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Shadowlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Test of the Ironman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Thundercling S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Underedger S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Vigorous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Violator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wings of Desire S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wings of Steel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | Pete Shackleton 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,303 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Hans Bauck on Apr 17, 2017 |
| Admins: | Sean Godwin, Mandie Walls, Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: September 14, 2020 - Park Mostly Re-Opened to Climbing
Details
The closure by BCWS of a large area surrounding and including Skaha Bluffs Provincial Park was rescinded at noon on Monday September 14. However, access to certain climbing areas is closed until further notice by order of BC Parks Kootenay Okanagan Regional Director. This includes those crags accessed from Ward 1 and Sauerkraut Trails (Rutopia, Retardant, Belvedere etc.) and those in the Gillies Creek Corridor (Flake Cliff, Shady Lane, Shady Hollow etc.) This order is for safety and environmental reasons.
For more details, go to:
bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
To view the (closure) order and a map of the closed area, click on:
bcparks.ca/advisories/2020/…
Source: Jon Jones at facebook.com/groups/SkahaBl…
For more details, go to:
bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
To view the (closure) order and a map of the closed area, click on:
bcparks.ca/advisories/2020/…
Source: Jon Jones at facebook.com/groups/SkahaBl…
Description
Eyrily Hanging Out is one of a small number of excellent traditional climbs at Skaha, and is highly recommended.
Scramble up to the top of a pedestal and then climb the finger crack through a short crux section (~5.10c). A lower angled crack leads easily to the roofs, which are bypassed to the right via laybacks, underclings, and face holds.
There is a two bolt rappel anchor on a ledge midway through the roofs. I stopped here and was able to reach the ground with a 70m rope. I'm not sure if a 60m would have made it. Based on the presence of lichen and minimal chalk above, I suspect most people finish the climb here also.
To this point, the climbing through the roofs is probably not more than 5.10a, and so by stopping at this anchor the climb is nowhere near as difficult as the 5.11a rating it gets in the guidebook.
It's possible to continue through the final roof to the top of the wall, and I suspect the true crux is this final roof section.
Scramble up to the top of a pedestal and then climb the finger crack through a short crux section (~5.10c). A lower angled crack leads easily to the roofs, which are bypassed to the right via laybacks, underclings, and face holds.
There is a two bolt rappel anchor on a ledge midway through the roofs. I stopped here and was able to reach the ground with a 70m rope. I'm not sure if a 60m would have made it. Based on the presence of lichen and minimal chalk above, I suspect most people finish the climb here also.
To this point, the climbing through the roofs is probably not more than 5.10a, and so by stopping at this anchor the climb is nowhere near as difficult as the 5.11a rating it gets in the guidebook.
It's possible to continue through the final roof to the top of the wall, and I suspect the true crux is this final roof section.
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