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Routes in (a) Great White

Acid Test S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chalk Addiction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eyrily Hanging Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Run T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Logan's Run S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadowlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Test of the Ironman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vigorous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wings of Desire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Pete Shackleton 1990
Page Views: 267 total · 18/month
Shared By: Hans on Apr 17, 2017
Admins: Sean Godwin, Kate Lynn

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Description

Eyrily Hanging Out is one of a small number of excellent traditional climbs at Skaha, and is highly recommended.

Scramble up to the top of a pedestal and then climb the finger crack through a short crux section (~5.10c). A lower angled crack leads easily to the roofs, which are bypassed to the right via laybacks, underclings, and face holds.

There is a two bolt rappel anchor on a ledge midway through the roofs. I stopped here and was able to reach the ground with a 70m rope. I'm not sure if a 60m would have made it. Based on the presence of lichen and minimal chalk above, I suspect most people finish the climb here also.

To this point, the climbing through the roofs is probably not more than 5.10a, and so by stopping at this anchor the climb is nowhere near as difficult as the 5.11a rating it gets in the guidebook.

It's possible to continue through the final roof to the top of the wall, and I suspect the true crux is this final roof section.

Location

Located at the south end of Great White Wall, near and right of the immensely popular Test of the Ironman, Eyrily Hanging Out climbs the large inside corner through two roofs.

Protection

Eyrily Hanging Out is very well protected with a rack of cams and nuts from tips to #1 Camalot, with doubles in finger sizes. Include a large number of extendable draws.

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