Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 105 ft|
|FA:||Pete Shackleton 1990|
|Page Views:||710 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Hans Bauck on Apr 17, 2017|
|Admins:||Sean Godwin, Kate Lynn|
Scramble up to the top of a pedestal and then climb the finger crack through a short crux section (~5.10c). A lower angled crack leads easily to the roofs, which are bypassed to the right via laybacks, underclings, and face holds.
There is a two bolt rappel anchor on a ledge midway through the roofs. I stopped here and was able to reach the ground with a 70m rope. I'm not sure if a 60m would have made it. Based on the presence of lichen and minimal chalk above, I suspect most people finish the climb here also.
To this point, the climbing through the roofs is probably not more than 5.10a, and so by stopping at this anchor the climb is nowhere near as difficult as the 5.11a rating it gets in the guidebook.
It's possible to continue through the final roof to the top of the wall, and I suspect the true crux is this final roof section.