Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 901 total · 11/month
Shared By: Trevor. on Apr 16, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal raptor closures: Scary Canyon and Nixon Head (updated 2/24/24) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A very fun addition to West Carbody. Stick-clip the first bolt or clip it from the Velcro Fly start column. The first 4 bolts are characterized by good quality Black Cliffs 5.10+ arete climbing on interesting holds. Cop a rest when you can on the blocky section near the top , clip that last bolt, and punch it through an overhanging boulder problem to the anchors. It is possible to clip the last bolt and skirt out right to the Velcro Fly anchors to avoid the 5.11d+ crux

Location Suggest change

Just right of Pabst Smear.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts to quick clip anchors. Be careful at the second bolt, a blown clip would likely be a ground fall.