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Routes in The Prow & Reality Wall

Air to the Throne T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Arkansas Reality T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backrub T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bryes Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickens in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imminent Domain T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Natural, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sickle, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slam Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sliders T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smooth Operator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
SuperNatural T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unkown 5.9 (first route after catacombs down approach) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 59 total, 7/month
Shared By: JD Borgeson on Apr 11, 2017
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

An often overlooked, but excellent moderate face climb on gear. The rock quality is superb above the slightly chossy start. Gear is somewhat straight forward. typical AR face trad, be prepared to sling chickenheads.

Climb the bendy crack using holds all about (looks chossy but climbs really well) till you get to the base of the roof and the first placements (5.8, PG). place a piece or two in the big horizontal crack and fire the crux to get established on the face. head straight up for a while placing funky gear until you get to the bomber nut placement near the top that you can see from the ground. from hear traverse straight right, then up, as the wall kind of blanks out here. finish straight up above the bulge to find a bolted anchor. prepare to rap, as it is only hangers, no rings.

Location

route just left of smooth operator. bendy crack up to a roof with good holds above and below. has an obvious sidepull/flake type feature above the roof. a second small roof exists near the anchors.

Protection

one or two #3 C4s for the crux, then mostly small gear, nuts and slinging chickenheads.

Photos

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Andrew B. Ellis
  5.9+
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.9+
Cool climb with good movement. We rappelled down to the anchors and set this up as a toprope. Tricky to clean, as you don't want to rap from the hangars (no chain/rap rings) I climbed above and then rapped down from a sturdy tree to clean it. Apr 16, 2017