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Eminent Domain

5.9+ PG13, Trad, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
Arkansas > North-Central A… > Sam's Throne &… > Sam's Throne > 4. E Main Bluff > Prow & Reality Wall

Description

An often overlooked, but excellent moderate face climb on gear. The rock quality is superb above the slightly chossy start. Gear is somewhat straight forward. typical AR face trad, be prepared to sling chickenheads.

Climb the bendy crack using holds all about (looks chossy but climbs really well) till you get to the base of the roof and the first placements (5.8, PG). place a piece or two in the big horizontal crack and fire the crux to get established on the face. head straight up for a while placing funky gear until you get to the bomber nut placement near the top that you can see from the ground. from hear traverse straight right, then up, as the wall kind of blanks out here. finish straight up above the bulge to find a bolted anchor. prepare to rap, as it is only hangers, no rings.

*as of 12/20 the anchors are equipped for lowering.

Location

route just left of smooth operator. bendy crack up to a roof with good holds above and below. has an obvious sidepull/flake type feature above the roof. a second small roof exists near the anchors.

Protection

one or two #3 C4s for the crux, then mostly small gear, nuts and slinging chickenheads.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Ellis
Taos, NM
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Cool climb with good movement. We rappelled down to the anchors and set this up as a toprope. Tricky to clean, as you don't want to rap from the hangars (no chain/rap rings) I climbed above and then rapped down from a sturdy tree to clean it. Apr 16, 2017
Sam Tobler
Little Rock, AR
[Hide Comment] Yeah, I was curious about the top anchor bolts on this route. Why aren't there chains or rap rings on them? The way they're set up, a top rope anchor can be easily set up just like a sport route. But, it'd require quite the production to clean this route as you can't rap from those bolts. Dec 23, 2017
Sam Tobler
Little Rock, AR
[Hide Comment] The bolt anchors have quick links on them now. Dec 2, 2020