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Lionheart

5.10+, Trad, 1150 ft (348 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 3.9 from 15 votes
FA: R&M Edwards
International > Asia > Jordan > Wadi Rum > Jebel Rum
Warning Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing DetailsDrop down

Description

An incredible climb. A classic anywhere in the world. Takes a direct line up a series of corner systems. Climbing style ranges from liebacks to chimneying. Every pitch is beautiful and it ends with a magnificent summit on the Abu Aina towers.

P1 - 10a // Easy climbing to a chockstone / roof, go left and continue to a belay.
P2 - 10c // The physical crux, and a fantastic pitch. Fingers, to the lieback crux, to a wide section.
P3 - 10a // A short but sweet pitch. Head right into what looks like an OW, but with sinker deep hands.
P4 - 10a // A couple of .2 and .3 cams can protect the opening face moves, better not to fall. PG-13
P5 - 10c // Another incredible pitch. Chimney upward with calcite deposits for friction.
P6 - 10a // A wild traversing pitch on the melting sandstone that typifies Wadi Rum summits. Sling your first pieces liberally to avoid rope drag through the traverse.
P7 - Easy // Easy slab to the raps below the summit.
P8 - Spicy // Make a few moves upwards, unprotected, for summit views. Carefully downclimb.

Rap the route. Recommended not to skip to rap stations because of the possibility for ropes to get stuck. You need doubles or a tag.

Location

Leave the town of Wadi Rum towards the desert. Walk for 30 minutes along the base of Jebel Rum until you see a palm near the base of the massif. Once the palm is sited, head right, well before the palm, towards the tourist / Bedouin camp. Scramble up the hill behind the camp. You'll eventually 3rd / 4th class your way through an obvious wormhole/boulder that will lead you to the final portion of the approach. Follow cairns to the base of the climb, passing a short 4th class section.

Tony Howard's guidebook gives the approach at 30 - 45 minutes, maybe if you're at a full sprint. If you're walking from town leave at least 90 minutes for the approach.

Protection

BD double rack through #2 and single #3. Some may want wider gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Try and find these rock drawings on the way to Lionheart. Lots of clues
[Hide Photo] Try and find these rock drawings on the way to Lionheart. Lots of clues
Liam O'Bryan coming up the wide section on Pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Liam O'Bryan coming up the wide section on Pitch 3
Brett tackling pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Brett tackling pitch 2
Route
[Hide Photo] Route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
[Hide Comment] I got lost along the way and stumbled upon some petroglyphs on the side of a hill nearby... amazing what you can find out there Mar 1, 2018
Colten Moore
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] Amazing route! Very sustained and just so many good pitches. We found pitch 2 and 5 to be kinda hard for the grade! Feb 4, 2020
Lane Mathis
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great route on great rock. I found a #4 to be useful. Doubles .2-#3 and a set of nuts had me feeling cozy.

We unroped and walked around climbers right at the last belay then did some hiking to the summit. Dec 12, 2021
Neha Khurana
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] You can rap this route with a single 70m rope, just don’t skip any anchors on the way down. Jan 12, 2023