Lionheart
5.10+,
Trad, 1150 ft (348 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 3.9 from 15
votes
FA: R&M Edwards
International
> Asia
> Jordan
> Wadi Rum
> Jebel Rum
Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing
Details
As of May 2022, the entry fee to Wadi Rum was 5JD/person. The alternative to paying the entrance fee is to buy a Jordan Pass. If you get the Jordan Pass before you arrive in Jordan, your US visa fee ($56 US) is waived and the Jordan Pass allows access to places like Petra, Shobak Castle, etc.
At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.
Description
An incredible climb. A classic anywhere in the world. Takes a direct line up a series of corner systems. Climbing style ranges from liebacks to chimneying. Every pitch is beautiful and it ends with a magnificent summit on the Abu Aina towers.
P1 - 10a // Easy climbing to a chockstone / roof, go left and continue to a belay.
P2 - 10c // The physical crux, and a fantastic pitch. Fingers, to the lieback crux, to a wide section.
P3 - 10a // A short but sweet pitch. Head right into what looks like an OW, but with sinker deep hands.
P4 - 10a // A couple of .2 and .3 cams can protect the opening face moves, better not to fall. PG-13
P5 - 10c // Another incredible pitch. Chimney upward with calcite deposits for friction.
P6 - 10a // A wild traversing pitch on the melting sandstone that typifies Wadi Rum summits. Sling your first pieces liberally to avoid rope drag through the traverse.
P7 - Easy // Easy slab to the raps below the summit.
P8 - Spicy // Make a few moves upwards, unprotected, for summit views. Carefully downclimb.
Rap the route. Recommended not to skip to rap stations because of the possibility for ropes to get stuck. You need doubles or a tag.
Location
Leave the town of Wadi Rum towards the desert. Walk for 30 minutes along the base of Jebel Rum until you see a palm near the base of the massif. Once the palm is sited, head right, well before the palm, towards the tourist / Bedouin camp. Scramble up the hill behind the camp. You'll eventually 3rd / 4th class your way through an obvious wormhole/boulder that will lead you to the final portion of the approach. Follow cairns to the base of the climb, passing a short 4th class section.
Tony Howard's guidebook gives the approach at 30 - 45 minutes, maybe if you're at a full sprint. If you're walking from town leave at least 90 minutes for the approach.
Protection
BD double rack through #2 and single #3. Some may want wider gear.
[Hide Photo] Try and find these rock drawings on the way to Lionheart. Lots of clues
[Hide Photo] Liam O'Bryan coming up the wide section on Pitch 3
Innsbruck, AT
SLC, UT
Denver, CO
We unroped and walked around climbers right at the last belay then did some hiking to the summit. Dec 12, 2021
Flagstaff, AZ