Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Apache Arrow

Airborne Sage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pocaterra T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Derek Field, Dave Spies (March 2017)
Page Views: 763 total · 53/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 10, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Airborne Sage is a new multipitch route on the west face of Apache Arrow. It takes a direct natural line, passing through the Sage Chimney (as well as other unique features) and topping out near the summit. Comfortable, scenic belay ledges separate short, action-packed pitches. For mega value it can be linked into two pitches by strong parties. This is a varied route, unique for having parallel-walled cracks in pretty much every size (fingertips through chimney) appear throughout the journey. There's still a wee bit of loose rock - especially on the first pitch (yikes) - but its part of the overall Sandona adventure, isn't it? Enjoy!

Pitch 1: The bottom half of this pitch is sort of an entrance fee for the route. See photos for the starting location. Meander up a shallow, mossy corner (sparse pro for 20 feet), aiming for an ugly flared groove. Stem/jam through the funkness to gain a nice handcrack that takes you up over a bulge and to a stance. Continue straight up a steep off-fingers dihedral on the arete, then work through a blocky offwidth section to a memorable belay seat with a two-bolt chain anchor. (5.9, 80 feet)

Pitch 2: Scale the golden splitter offwidth and pull the roof on its left side. Take a breather and plug some gear deep in the alcove (long slings) before casting off on a steep traverse up and right along sandy diagonals - this part is easier than it appears, but definitely a little heads-up. This leads into a spacious belay alcove with a two-bolt chain anchor at the entrance to the corridor. (5.10, 70 feet)

Pitch 3: Move the belay to the back of the corridor. Enjoy 3D stemming between the pillar and two main walls with finger cracks too. Surmount the pillar and make an awkward entrance into the Sage Chimney. Three bolts protect a wild, airy line on the edge of the smooth, featureless chasm. Epinephrine-esque. Belay from the two bolt chain anchor at the top of the chimney. (5.9, 70 feet)

Pitch 4: Lean across to the main wall and clip a bolt. Don't forget the photo op before cranking up the splitter fingercrack. Past a gritty ledge, it opens into twin handcracks. Settle into a seated belay at a two-bolt chain anchor on the outside of the formation with a pretty nice view. (5.10+, 50 feet)

The final belay anchor was placed to provide a worthy "summit view". If a true peak is what you desire, the actual summit of Apache Arrow is reached by 200 feet of loose class-4 scrambling. There is a slung tree (cordalette placed April 2017) that can be used to rappel back down this section.

Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. Note that the Sage Chimney rap station can be bypassed with a 70m rope.

Location [Suggest Change]

Direct line up the west face of Apache Arrow. See formation page for approach description. See photos for identifying the start of the route.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Single rack from purple (#0) metolius to green (#6) camalot
Single 60m rope
All bolted belays
Dave Spies
Sedona, AZ
 
Dave Spies   Sedona, AZ
 
We got hit by a windy thunder hail storm during the first ascent. As I squeezed up the chimney a piece of sage brush kept swirling around my head (airborne sage). A cleansing moment as I smudged my way out of the darkness. Apr 16, 2017
TKlein
Tempe, AZ
 
TKlein   Tempe, AZ
 
Super fun outting! Thought the crux of the route was clearing the roof on pitch 2 out left. Brought a #6 and glad we did. I even leap frogged it around a #5 so technically I placed it twice on pitch 2. Leave the 6 and 4 behind after that and take the 5 to protect the entrance into the sage chimney. Bolted belays, super protectable, great rock, and varied climbing. The pitches are a bit shorter but link them if that’s an issue for you. Also the approach is straight forward. Feb 11, 2018

More About Airborne Sage

Printer-Friendly