Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 144 total · 7/month
Shared By: Rich Brereton on Apr 9, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Parking is very limited if entering the property from Packers Falls Road @ Wiswall Road. Details


This variation adds a few great moves to Black Magic and tops out around the corner on the tallest point of the boulder, making an already-excellent problem truly superb.

Start as for White/Black Magic, work right past the crack to a rail just above the lip of the roof, then continue rightward to holds at the lip and feet on tiny edges. Gaston or cross into a layback on the left-facing crack, then reach around the prow to the right facing crack. Work your feet up, make a big move to the lip of the boulder, and float the chill but high topout.

Feels about as hard as Magician, which to me is solid V6. Both of these problems would be sought-after classics if they were at Pawtuckaway.


Good idea to bring at least two pads, one for the traverse and one for the topout. As with most problems here, the landing is mostly nice and flat.


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