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Routes in The Wiswall Boulders aka Thompson Farm

Abyss, The V2 5+
Black Magic V5 6C
Black Magic right V6 7A
Captain No-hands V0 4
Crack, The V0- 4-
Dark Slot, The V0- 4-
Dolph's Traverse V1 5
Fireball V1 5
Friction Fiction V4 6B
Fun Ladder V0 4
Lunch or Plunger V4-5 6B+
Lunge or Plunge V4+ 6B+
Magic Carpet Ride V5 6C
Magician V5 6C
Man Handle V1 5
Palm Reader V4 6B
Pimp My Ride V2 5+
Shorty V1 5
Slope Dope V0 4
Sloppy Seconds V1 5
Warm V0 4
Warmer V0-1 4+
White Magic V4 6B
Wiz Kid, The V3 6A
Wiz, The V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 87 total, 10/month
Shared By: Rich Brereton on Apr 9, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Parking is very limited if entering the property from Packers Falls Road @ Wiswall Road. Details

Description

This variation adds a few great moves to Black Magic and tops out around the corner on the tallest point of the boulder, making an already-excellent problem truly superb.

Start as for White/Black Magic, work right past the crack to a rail just above the lip of the roof, then continue rightward to holds at the lip and feet on tiny edges. Gaston or cross into a layback on the left-facing crack, then reach around the prow to the right facing crack. Work your feet up, make a big move to the lip of the boulder, and float the chill but high topout.

Feels about as hard as Magician, which to me is solid V6. Both of these problems would be sought-after classics if they were at Pawtuckaway.

Protection

Good idea to bring at least two pads, one for the traverse and one for the topout. As with most problems here, the landing is mostly nice and flat.

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