Black Magic right
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Boulder, 15 ft|
|Page Views:||95 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Rich Brereton on Apr 9, 2017|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Parking is very limited if entering the property from Packers Falls Road @ Wiswall Road. Details
The easiest way to get to the area is from the trail from Packers Falls road right across the street from Wiswall Road. If pulling onto Wiswall from packers falls, park along the property on the right. It has been said the the owner of the house on the left side of the road is a bit grouchy. The trail system allows for other approaches likely with more parking, but at the expense of time.
DescriptionThis variation adds a few great moves to Black Magic and tops out around the corner on the tallest point of the boulder, making an already-excellent problem truly superb.
Start as for White/Black Magic, work right past the crack to a rail just above the lip of the roof, then continue rightward to holds at the lip and feet on tiny edges. Gaston or cross into a layback on the left-facing crack, then reach around the prow to the right facing crack. Work your feet up, make a big move to the lip of the boulder, and float the chill but high topout.
Feels about as hard as Magician, which to me is solid V6. Both of these problems would be sought-after classics if they were at Pawtuckaway.
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