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Routes in Wiswall Boulders (aka Thompson Farm)
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Abyss, The V2 5+ |
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Black Magic V5 6C |
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Black Magic right V6 7A |
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Captain No-hands V0 4 |
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Crack, The V0- 4- |
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Dark Slot, The V0- 4- |
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Dolph's Traverse V1 5 |
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Fireball V1 5 |
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Friction Fiction V4 6B |
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Fun Ladder V0 4 |
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Living Curfew V4+ 6B+ |
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Lunch or Plunger V4-5 6B+ |
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Lunge or Plunge V4 6B |
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Magic Carpet Ride V5 6C |
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Magician V5 6C |
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Man Handle V1 5 |
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Palm Reader V4 6B |
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Pimp My Ride V2 5+ |
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Rail V0- 4- |
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Rail Traverse V0- 4- |
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Redemption V2-3 5+ |
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Redemption Arc V3 6A |
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Shorty V1 5 |
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Slope Dope V0 4 |
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Sloppy Seconds V1 5 |
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Warm V0 4 |
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Warmer V0-1 4+ |
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Wet Willy V0 4 |
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White Magic V4 6B |
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Wiz Kid, The V3 6A |
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Wiz, The V4 6B |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| GPS: | 43.10769, -70.9553 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,142 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Rich Brereton on Apr 9, 2017 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Parking is very limited if entering the property from Packers Falls Road @ Wiswall Road.
Details
The easiest way to get to the area is from the trail from Packers Falls road right across the street from Wiswall Road. If pulling onto Wiswall from packers falls, park along the property on the right. It has been said the the owner of the house on the left side of the road is a bit grouchy. The trail system allows for other approaches likely with more parking, but at the expense of time.
Description
This variation adds a few great moves to Black Magic and tops out around the corner on the tallest point of the boulder, making an already-excellent problem truly superb.
Start as for White/Black Magic, work right past the crack to a rail just above the lip of the roof, then continue rightward to holds at the lip and feet on tiny edges. Gaston or cross into a layback on the left-facing crack, then reach around the prow to the right facing crack. Work your feet up, make a big move to the lip of the boulder, and float the chill but high topout.
Feels about as hard as Magician, which to me is solid V6. Both of these problems would be sought-after classics if they were at Pawtuckaway.
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