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Routes in CAEC

CAEC T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
El Yeso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Es OK T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Von Glacet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Michael Dom, John Sloan
Page Views: 26 total · 3/month
Shared By: Michael Dom on Apr 9, 2017
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1

Follow the greasy crack break right at the roof and locate the detached pillars in the crack and then traverse right to another. Head upwards via a sweet lieback mantel move with good gear to the belay ledge where you build a gear anchor.

Pitch 2

Step right and traverse around the corner to a dirt mound. Ascend the wild flake that is heady and exposed. A #6 would be excellent for protecting this section. As you move up the flake you will find yourself standing on a rock pillar. Step right into the dirt for feet and begin liebacking and chimneying up the gulley. Once you get to the wet corner place a #4 and break left onto the face. You will be swinging on enormous jugs out left going to the head wall. Choose your holds carefully and sling horns until you break over the steep but heady terrain.

Location

Right of caec

Protection

Double rack from purple metolius to #2. A single #3,#4,#6 camalot.

Photos

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John Sloan
Birmingham, AL
 
John Sloan   Birmingham, AL
 
this thing is amazing and should be done instead of CAEC Apr 19, 2017