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Routes in Mystery Spire

Cracked Code T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inversion Virgin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mystery Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Derek Field (April 2017)
Page Views: 216 total · 23/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 6, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Inversion Virgin climbs the east face of Mystery Spire. Named for some wacky offwidth maneuvers pulled on the first ascent. Such moves may or may not be completely necessary, but the roof crack is a bear nonetheless.

Pitch 1: Start in the middle of the face, stemming a tips crack through several little bulges. Jam a right-arching hand crack to the belay ledge. Many options for gear anchor in and below the limestone band. (5.10-, 90 feet)

Pitch 2: Hop over the limestone band, wiggle up the chimney, and negotiate the offwidth roof crack. This is a well-protected yet rather devious bombay hatch. Belay from two-bolt anchor just above roof. (5.11, 60 feet)

Options from here:
1. Rappel route with two 60m ropes.
2. Continue up to top of tower on left (4th class), walk across summit to gap between two southernmost towers, and jump across to tallest tower. Very fun! Protect the jump-across with cams in horizontals. Rappel Cracked Code (south face) with one rope. Tree anchor at top; two-bolt chain anchor midway.
3. Boulder up tower on right (5.8 R) and rappel the original Mystery Spire route (north face) with one rope. Tree anchor at top; three-bolt chain anchor midway.

Location

East face of Mystery Spire.

Protection

Doubles from tiny to #3 camalot
Single #4, #5, #6 camalot
(new BD sizes)

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