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Twilight Zone

5.6, Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.9 from 10 votes
FA: K. Bridgens & T. Jones, 1975
International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Bow Valley > Kid Goat Buttress
Access Issue: Old access crosses private property Details

Description

P1 - 5.5 35m
Easy meandering climbing to the chains.
P2 - 5.6 30m
Interesting corner and crack system leads up to a fun limestone-style finger/hand crack.
P3 - 5.6 40m - crux pitch
Easy slab to easy roof, to easy slab, to easy roof.
P4 - 5.5 35m
More easy slab to easy roof, then walk to the chains.

Rock overall is good quality, and the route is quite fun.
Banff Rock has a detailed PDF available with description and topo of all the climbs on Kid Goat.

This climb has been retro bolted and very little trad gear is needed. It takes a few small cams to BD #1  in the second pitch, otherwise it's protected with fixed gear.

Location

Starts under a small cave a few routes climbers left of Grey Wave, and one route right of the tree island. Marked on the rock with "TWZ". Descent is via rappels, doable with 1 60m rope

Protection

All belays are bolted. There are a few bolts and pitons here and there on the climb. Other than that a small rack is needed.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch two, going up the nice finger/hand crack.
[Hide Photo] Pitch two, going up the nice finger/hand crack.