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Routes in Upper Left Bay (a.k.a Upper Crag)

Chimenea S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lanky S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shorty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 25 total · 3/month
Shared By: dmPete on Apr 5, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Parts of this cliff were closed when I visiting in 6/09 Details

Description

Shorty starts on a gentle overhang with big holds. Surmount the bulge by the second bolt and get lost in the sweet slab moves as they gradually get more difficult. By the time you hit the last two bolts where the feet have disappeared and the big jugs are up and to the left on a protruding shelf, you'll realize this route should be getting higher marks than Suphi, down by the pull out.

Location

Two routes to the right of Lanky, look for the vertical runnels above a big cave right around the first or second bolt.

Protection

7 or 8 bolts and a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

dmPete
 
dmPete  
 
This route description is for the first pitch only, approximately 25m. Lanky continues for another 15-20m to the top of the cliff.

As of March, 2017 all the bolts up to the first anchor were in great shape, anchor too. Did not get a good look at the hardware on the line to the top of the cliff though. Apr 5, 2017