Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Banana Hammock

5.11a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 27 votes
FA: Myles Moser (2015)
California > Eastern Sierra > Lone Pine Area > Alabama Hills > Alabama Hills N… > Western Wall Area > Tall Wall

Description

Has a little bit of chess but overall has some good movement on good holds
Might be a little softer then 11a....maybe more like 10c

Location

This is the route just to the left of Rotten Bananas

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is an amazing line on so-so rock quality. Just be okay with that.
[Hide Photo] This is an amazing line on so-so rock quality. Just be okay with that.
Red line is Banana Hammock....Climbers are on bananarama
[Hide Photo] Red line is Banana Hammock....Climbers are on bananarama

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Any more information on beta or the first ascent, please post it. Apr 5, 2017
Dane Larson
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] Led this in mid-Dec 2015, looked brand new and took a few chossy chunks for myself. As more people climb it will be interesting to see how it changes as there was a lot more that seemed to want to come off on my careful way up. Also, one of the bolts was sticking waaaay past the hanger, about 1.5" out. I tried unscrewing and helping it back in but it seemed bottomed out, hoping this was fixed.

Super fun lead, bolts well placed considering the dips and dives of the rock, carefully done to protect the rope from too much friction.

Totally hop on this if you're in the area. Take a lot of draws and use a 70m (if I remember correctly). Start on the ramp on the left of where you step up and into the steep part. If you're ok with runouts, don't bother clipping too low or bring an alpine. Next time I go I'll send more beta. Jul 12, 2017
Eugenel Espiritu
Pennsylvania
  5.11a PG13
[Hide Comment] Last bolt before anchors in questionable spot; might be a hazard when you head to the chains as a fall would pendulum you into adjoining rock formation since it’s quite left of the finish. Consider skipping it and do the 15’ run out to the finish. I think it made the route a tad easier as you omitted one strong move. Excellent climb but some of the holds will break off in time (PG13). So it’s going to get harder. There is one V3ish move after the large chicken heads, so 5.11a is fitting. Most of it is 10c. Apr 30, 2018
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I brought a few alpine draws but wished I'd extended almost everything to cut down on drag for when I went around the corner. Apr 30, 2018
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
5.11a
[Hide Comment] Brought 1 sling for last bolt on the slab and 2 more for the last 2 bolts before rounding the corner to the anchors. All the holds were solid. If there was choss in the past, it has cleaned up. Felt like 10.c with a 3 move V2 crux 3 bolts before the top. Huge holds to clip off of at every bolt. Very safe and very fun. Nov 21, 2020
Rachel Rubin
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] I hate to be the person to say this, but I think either the rating is pretty sandbagged or some holds broke off. This was a fantastic climb, and super unlike other climbing in the Hills - steep, gymnastic moves on crazy features with some awesome exposure up high. However I and my partners thought that the beginning section felt a bit harder than 10c for sure, and that the crux felt closer to ~11c. Go do this climb, it's awesome, but I think an 11a leader might have some trouble. And extend some of the draws, as other commenters mentioned. Dec 15, 2020
William Leventhal
Calabasas
 
[Hide Comment] I did a combination of this and Banana in a Shotglass, which was super fun. I went up the steep scoops and huecos and stepped right to join the crack at a section of perfect hands before heading out right on the finishing face section. The last bolt seems out of place on Banana Hammock. I'd give this 3 stars and call it 5.10c/d. Jan 20, 2021
[Hide Comment] Not many sends on this thing, seems to be getting fewer onsights as time goes on? Oct 22, 2022
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
5.11a
[Hide Comment] Reclimbed it this weekend. Midway up the overhang you move left to a large fin. There’s no choss but the fin may not be there long if not climbed on carefully. The last moves on the overhang involve bumping up a very positive but very crumbly feeling jug rail. The crux was definitely moving left to clip the bolt before the rail and then getting back into position to continue the climb. 11.a? Apr 22, 2024