Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Tim ball, Sheila Moriarty, Rob Curran November 2 2016
Page Views: 798 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tim ball on Apr 4, 2017
Admins: Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

Three pitch friction slab with gear and bolts. Bolted on lead so not a sport route. Start middle of wall by an obvious pointy flake under an overlap roof. Flake offers sling pro before a bolt. Face moves past bolt to roof and gear2-3 Camelot and wire at lip. Pull around onto slab above. Shallow water runnels and good friction past 3 bolts takes you to a nice scoop and a DBB. 30m, 5.9.
Pitch 2 is the money, climb up and right of belay small cam in slot up to an obvious vertical groove with a bolt. Weird moves here and a good piece of pro then up to a left trending corner and large cam. Move out of corner left under horizontal roof to a smooth ramp and another bolt, keep smearing left to another bolt and smearsmearsmear left till you can reach a vertical crack at left end of roof (crux) and a hanging DBB. Whew! Watch rope drag on this one, 25m, 5.10+PG13.
Pitch 3 follows the crack past 2 bolts then it lays back DBB,15m 5.9.

Location

Park on side of road below slab.
Hike steep loose terrain initially through a gully then break right past large trees to base of 3rd class ledges. This brings you to center of face, look left for start of route. It starts almost directly under the large flake on pitch 2. Rap route with a single 60m rope.

Protection

Bolts and gear. Cams to 3", set of wires . Single 60m sufficient.
Double bolt belays on top of each pitch.

Photos

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