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Gentleman’s Agreement

5.12d, Trad, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: FA: Olevsky, Walker, Farber, 4/82 FFA: Rob Pizem 2009
Utah > Zion National Park > The Three Marys > The Left Mary
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

P0: A short low 5th section gets you onto the ledge below the dihedral. Big cams helpful for a belay on the sloping ledge.

P1 5.12d (apparently 13- if skipping the hanging belay and linking P1/P2): Clip a star drive and some pins to face climb into the corner. Once established, very thin laybacking passes two more pins and some tricky gear to a hanging anchor. Easy to french free, the tips section is ~30ft.

P2 5.12b: Thin stemming and laybacking up the corner. A featured left face and smooth right face forces varied movement.

P3 5.11d: A beautiful flare heads into great varied fingers, finishing with a go-for-it layback section.

P4 5.12a: One reachy move above the belay past a pin leads to easier bushy and adventurous climbing.

P5 5.10: A varied clean splitter with everything from thin hands to offwidth moves.

P6 5.10+: Fists to a 5" layback roof. More fat crack lies above, but with featured face around.

P7 5.10: Easy wide climbing to a fist crack roof and more low angle fists/wide hands. Belay at a high tree on the right.

P8 5.?: Broken cracks continue up for a pitch or two to the true summit.

Rappel the route from P7 with a single 70m (unsure if possible after P8 or above), or head to the true summit and descend the notch towards the Middle Mary.

Location

The obvious right facing dihedral on the Left Mary. An obvious feature, going bottom to top on the wall.

Protection

Micros (aliens and TCUs), RPs, doubles to 6. Extra fingers and hands could be helpful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The P6 wide layback
[Hide Photo] The P6 wide layback
P5, clean and bush free
[Hide Photo] P5, clean and bush free
The dihedral from the approach
[Hide Photo] The dihedral from the approach

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] The belays are good through P4. P5 is one drilled pin, one old bolt. P6 is one new bolt and a few fixed stoppers, and free hangs frustratingly close to a nice foot stance. P7 is a small tree with a new bolt backup. Safe at the moment, but a bolt kit and some re-engineering could go a long way. Apr 3, 2017