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Routes in Xochipili Headwall

Ana S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Poder Blanco T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El Techo de Limites T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Unknown (Alternate Finish) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Unknown (Finger Crack Start) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (Girdle Traverse) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Xochipili S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 32 total, 4/month
Shared By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Apr 3, 2017
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

This is not a route in itself, but a combination of interesting sections of the existing ones. Its whole point is to traverse the Xochipili Headwall from right to left.

Start by climbing up El Techo de Limites, passing its first crux on suspect gear (5.10c PG13) then stepping left to a small stance. Place a couple medium sized cams then start traversing hard left on small holds (5.9+ R), aiming for one of the bolts halfway up Ana, and then another one on Xochipili. Downclimb a few meters till you're able to go around a corner and into the shallow dihedral of El Poder Blanco. Climb this one to its top and belay from the anchors of Acrofobia.

Make sure to use long slings for the entire way, since rope drag can be heinous. Also make sure to carefully belay up your second. Enjoy!

Location

This route starts from the far right end of the Xochipili Headwall.

Protection

Standard rack from #.1 to #2 Camalot, nuts, and many long slings.

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