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> Sugar Cookie
Grandpa Joe’s Direct
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in The Sugar Cookie
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Chuffed As F*ck (extension to Well Chuffed) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Donkey Way, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Evil Sede S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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First Blood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grandpa Joe’s Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Higher Truth, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Silverback Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sixty Forty T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Truth, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Well Chuffed S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wilde T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ed Barry, Rick Cashner (1979), Brian Ketron |
| Page Views: | 1,181 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | tallmark515 on Apr 2, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Start this route with a 3 bolt variation (11b) which continues up and left into a large flake and to a large pedestal (stance). This variation adds 40 feet of high quality face climbing. Alternatively, there is a 3rd class scramble around the corner to the left.
From the pedestal above the flake, place high gear (nuts and blue alien size) and punch it up to good finger locks (5.11) in a 50 foot splitter finger crack (mostly .4 and .5 Camalot).
Either stop at the anchor or continue past a bolt and through a small roof (11+) and up a crack to another bolted belay.
80m rope required to lower off.
From the pedestal above the flake, place high gear (nuts and blue alien size) and punch it up to good finger locks (5.11) in a 50 foot splitter finger crack (mostly .4 and .5 Camalot).
Either stop at the anchor or continue past a bolt and through a small roof (11+) and up a crack to another bolted belay.
80m rope required to lower off.
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