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Routes in Main area

Dali S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Intrepido S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sostre den Burotet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suphi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via des clau S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 86 total · 9/month
Shared By: dmPete on Apr 2, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

One of Mallorca's must-do routes. This short, iconic line is as cool you'd imagine. Five bolts of strenuous climbing punctuated by a stellar crux that will require you to turn the lip and pull through a couple of desperate tosses while 40-ish feet above the scenic road to Port de Valldemossa. I think the title's translation from Mallorquin is something like "Guardians of the Roof."

Location

50 feet up the road from the main pullout in front of Suphi. Seriously, though, it's the only route drastically overhanging the road, you'll know right away where it is.

Protection

Five bolts, two bolt anchor. Watch out for the cars while belaying.

Photos

dmPete
 
dmPete  
 
A few items to note about this route, none of which even came close to lowering its fun factor. Absolute classic!

1) As of March, 2017, though somewhat serviceable, the first four bolts (and especially the fourth) showed quite a bit of wear/weather and did not inspire much confidence.

2) If you whip off the fifth bolt, good luck getting back on the route. On the upside, unless your belayer's asleep, you'll have plenty of room for car clearance below (tested, a number of times).

3) Be prepared to clean the route on a TR lap, which has plenty of its own logistical challenges. Cleaning from rappel is ridiculous, and probably more strenuous than climbing the route again. Apr 2, 2017

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