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Routes in Savin Hill

Big Savin Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Savin Left T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 65 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on Apr 1, 2017
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

This ascends the tallest face of Big Savin. Start on the lower block (with feet 1/4 the way up this block) to reach a slanting rail, which consists of some slopers and a few hidden crimpers. Crank on this rail feature, and move your feet up on tiny edges. Search for some two-finger pockets and nubbins at the crease (strenuous & delicate crux) that separates the vertical face from the slabby finish. Pulling your feet onto the slabby finish is surprising tough. Boston Rocks lists this as 5.7 (the added "+" means this is sandbagged). It is a pumpy, short route that requires some technique - not ideal for newbies.

Location

This ascends the tallest face on Big Savin. The route is right of the large crack that separates the Savin Slabs from the steeper stuff. Look for the slanting rail feature on the vertical face.

Protection

Toprope from a bolted anchor (several trails lead to the top). Falling from the slanting rail (and rope stretch) will result in an awkward landing on the lower block (i.e., injury).

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