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Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2 from 6
FA: Blake DeVries - 3.16.17
> Wasatch Range
> Little Cottonwo…
> Burner Buttress
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pitch 1: Start at the finger crack to left of Death Flake (see the new granite guide). Follow finger crack dihedral and climb onto the ledge using the right-hand flake. Continue to the bush on top of the ledge. Follow the ledge up to a fist jam crack. Once at the top, veer right to the top of the tree gully under the roof. Set up a gear belay station here.
Pitch 2: From this point, climb straight up and place a #3 camelot. Traverse across the face to the right and link in with the top portion of Death Flake and up to the belay tree.
The route sits to the left of Death Flake and the start is a small dihedral finger crack.
Standard rack and nuts.
Bring gear for belay station at the end of pitch one. Rappel out of tree on pitch two.