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Routes in Spazzacaldeira

La Fiamma S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lasciamilì 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nasi Goreng 6a T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northeast Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steinfresser 6b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via Felice 6a S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via Leni 6b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: A.H. Sommer 7 September 1928
Page Views: 92 total, 10/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 26, 2017
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

The Northeast Ridge of the Spazzacaldeira is a fun multi pitch route on fine granite with great views of the Albigna area. A nice ramble and introduction to the rock and multi pitch routes for the area, as well as an easy climb leading to the base of the wildly popular Fiamma as well as the more stumpy Dente.

Aka as the Normale al Dente and the Central Spur.

From the approach trail, scramble up lower angle rock interspersed with grassy slopes trending to the right to the base of the deep gully below the arête to the right. Some fixed rope along the way. A belay station with fixed gear marks the start of the route.

Climb the arête on fine rock with a few bolts for protection. Great position and fun, steep climbing. Continue up until the notch is reached.

At the notch, wind down into blocks and pass the little spire block to the left, popping out behind at the base of a steep wall. Traverse to the right on ledges to the base of the ridge.

There’s a steep bit up a sharp crack line with a fair bit of fixed gear. Step right and gain a ramp leading to the ridge crest.

Follow the crest of the ridge to its top. Either stay on the exposed left side, or, follow lower angle cracks to the right. Several pitches.

A short rappel into a blocky area leads south to the trail to the Dente and/or Fiamma. Follow the trail to the south to gain the base of the formation.

Location

Start from the road from the tram just below the dam. When the road swings back to the south, note the large, grassy apron and scree gully with a well trodden trail winding up to its apex.

Protection

The lower part of the route has some fixed pro (bolts and pitons) but the upper ridge line seems to have little in the way of gear in situ. A small rack of especially medium sized nuts and cams along with the requisite quick draws and slings should prove useful.

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