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Routes in Crazy Quilt Mesa

Crazy Quilt T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 484 total, 55/month
Shared By: Danger-Russ Gordon on Mar 26, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This seems to be the only established route on the mesa, but there was old webbing all over so I am sure its been done many ways. It was bolted most of the time, but a few extended sections had good cracks for protection. All the anchors were great bolts/chains.

It can be a little tricky to find the base of (or at least it was for me) take a good look at the pictures, and from what I remember the first bolt is 10-12 feet up. Its 7 pitches total, with the first 4 being in my opinion the best. The last 2 were a bit more choosy/sandy, and the only reason I think it might deserve a PG-13 rating. The last pitches took a little more route finding / bolt finding as well. For most parties I would recommend stopping at the top of the 4th pitch on an amazing terrace with excellent views and nice trees.

With any of the Zion mesa's, watch out for sand and loose hardware. I'm sure this thing takes at least an extra day or two to try after rain as well so keep that in mind.

There was just one kind of tricky move, on the 3rd pitch i think, that I had to use some sandy knobs to get over a bulge that was well protected by a bolt. some day those will be gone and I don't how hard this will be at that point. I would highly recommend helmets if you want to top out, the last two pitches are adventurous for sure, but the 360 view from the top is amazing.

Protection

2 60M ropes, 10-12 draws, and a small rack of cams. I cant remember exactly what I used, but if I went again I would take BD sizes, 1 .5, 2 .75's, 2 1's, and 2 2's. But i suspect most parties would find that to be over kill.

Photos

Dwayne Campogan
Seattle, Washington
 
Dwayne Campogan   Seattle, Washington
 
First 4 pitches I give 3 stars and pretty fun. The last 2 pitches 2 stars. The last pitch encountered loose rock. Rappel off the summit was on natural anchors. We hiked up to the summit. Nice views, but not as nice as the views you get by cliimbing "Led By Sheep" because there are some big trees up there. 4 days ago