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Routes in Split Rock

Dislocator Traverse V3 6A
Split Peas V1 5
Split Rock Traverse V3 6A
This is BS V1 5
Time Waster V0 4
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 62 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jamie Sookprasong on Mar 25, 2017
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Description

This is a R -> L traverse that shares the same middle section with Split Rock Traverse but starts and ends with different holds.

Begin at the right end of the traverse face with (crossed) hands on juggy side pulls. Move out to the hairline crimps on the sloper rail and then move up to the higher rail. Traverse the rail and make a big move up and left to the lip just left of the mini dihedral. From here, heel-toe cam the rail as you continue to slap out left along the lip until you can get your feet beneath you on the large holds high up. Work your body over the lip, finishing with a couple delicate slab moves before finishing on the left edge (the really good incut seams on top are off until you reach the left edge)

Protection

A couple pads or pad + spotter to shuffle it along

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Jamie Sookprasong
London, England
 
Jamie Sookprasong   London, England
 
Reluctant to call this a FA because the route seems so obvious, but haven't found it in any Guidebooks. Please let me know if you know of this route by another name/the First Ascensionist and I will update the page!

(I just gave it this name because the heel-toe cam reminded me of Dislocator Roof in the Gunks). Mar 25, 2017