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Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Branching to Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginnings T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chandler Van Schaack & Shaun Reed, 3/25/17
Page Views: 629 total · 33/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Mar 25, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

This is basically a direct, all-gear start to "Backdoor Man" that follows the overhanging, double cracks in pink rock between the regular start of "Backdoor Man" and "Tanuki." It packs some powerful climbing with bomber gear into about 40 feet and connects to "Backdoor Man" at the fourth bolt. It is definitely way harder than the standard start to "Backdoor Man" but also way cooler, at least in the first ascentionists' opinions :) Be sure to get your gear right, as the ground slopes up somewhat with the route, so any blown pieces could be bad.

Location

Start 20 feet left of "Tanuki" and "Branching Out," and climb the overhanging twin cracks up to the fourth bolt of "Backdoor Man".

Protection

We used a total of seven pieces ranging from a blue Metolius up to a red camalot. A yellow/blue Metolius offset is useful but not mandatory. If you don't bring one, bring two yellow Metolius Mastercams. Once you hit the fourth bolt of "Backdoor Man," it is all bolts from there to the anchors.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Great work, guys! I knew someone would knockout that direct start sooner than later. Mar 26, 2017
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
The jug undercling that enabled you to make the crack switch at about 25ft is gone. I haven’t been on it since the break, but I’m guessing it’s a bit harder now. Jun 14, 2018

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