PRINT: Climb Jon's Arete Right, *Pawtuckaway

Jon's Arete Right

V10 PG13, Boulder, 18 ft (5 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Unknown, Post Break/ First Recent Ascent T. Fauteux
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Blair Woods > Swirley Boulder

Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See Details

Go to nhstateparks.org/visit/stat… for info and to make a reservation. This may change to every day in the future.

Description

Sit start on some flat horizontal edges and make a few moves up the wall with a long reach to a good pocket-like hold.

Once on this pocket, match and continue up and right through a series of compression moves and some scary heelhooking and some bad holds. Topout at the apex and possibly the highpoint of the entire boulder.

Location

To the left of Uncle Climax.

Protection

4 pads

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Working through the crux moves on Jon's Arete Right.

One of the proudest lines on the boulder.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO

Intriguing climb, but very mossy up top at the moment. When is the Fateaux/Galloway cleaning crew going to go to work on this climb? The line looks really fun and I'd love to climb it... (hint hint) Oct 6, 2017

Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH

V10 PG13

Might have to be added to the "To-Scrub list"! Oct 6, 2017

Troy Fauteux
Henniker, NH

V10+ PG13

I finally got around to doing this one today. I cleaned and worked it once in 2019, once in 2020, and then again today. All 3 sessions I worked the moves on rope and knew it was possible but just really hard and scary. The crux revolves around a left heel hook on the slot for Jon's Arete and a very committing punch for the sidepull at the lip. This move felt very insecure on rope and until today I never felt comfortable enough to try it from the start.

I'd say you'll want at least 5-6 pads to try and cover that big rock as much as possible just in case you back flop out of the heel hook. As far as the grade. I think its probably solid V10 and very friction dependent. The holds aren't super obvious but I did get a video and will try to post it soon. Definitely a proud tick and one that I've been wanting to do for a while now. Now I just need Child and the boulder is complete! Nov 28, 2021

Troy Fauteux
Henniker, NH

V10+ PG13

Here's some beta from my send. youtube.com/watch?v=orXAUJE… Nov 29, 2021