Via Classica (South Face) (Dimai/Eötvös Route)
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1675 ft, 21 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Antonio Dimai, and Ilona and Roland Eötvös|
|Page Views:||248 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Eliot Padzensky on Mar 24, 2017|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
Amazing multi-pitch with 2600 feet of vertical gain and a 10,000 foot summit. Hike up loose slope to the start of the climb. Follow grade II ledge through large grotto/ cave and then across face to piton. Climb 8 pitches of grade II to IV climbing up face to large amphitheater. Cross quickly to avoid falling rocks. Climb up easy terrain on other side of the amphitheater to find obvious traverse. Continue to second, smaller amphitheater. (Note: if necessary, there is a cave here which is suitable for bivvying.) Climb up through the second amphitheater to traverse to face climb. This face climb out of the second amphitheater is grade IV and very wandery.Continue through two pitches of chimney to three pitch very exposed traverse. Continue upward through two remaining pitches. Final pitch is chimney that requires climbing behind a couple wedged chockstones. Remainder of route is 1500 feet of scree to the summit. It is extremely steep and slippery and as such it is recommended that you do it roped to your partner. Descent is easy hike down back side.
Park at Rifugio Dibona and hike to face. Follow face about 2/3 of the way until you see a large obvious cave/ grotto which marks the start of the climb.