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Routes in Little Valley Routes

Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weapons Grade T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Kevin Chase, Lisa Hathaway
Page Views: 29 total, 4/month
Shared By: Joe Stern on Mar 22, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb up some blocks from the right to gain the long right-facing corner/flake with a single protection bolt high on the route. The corner starts wide and progressively thins. Exciting moves on soft rock and tenuous flakes getting past the bolt and up to the anchor.

This is mostly a pretty fun route, but the rock quality is pretty spooky moving past the bolt.

The route faces SE.

Location

This route is located on the left side of the Alcove Left. See directions for Alcove Right, but continue past the large parking area near the mouth of this side canyon and park in a small pullout under the prow that forms the left side of the Alcove walls. Follow washes up to the ridge that leads directly to the prow. This area can also be reached from the Alcove Right parking, following washes and sheep trails.

There are at least 4 other routes at the Alcove Left, mostly 5.10 and described in Karl's book.

Protection

Doubles 0.5-4, extra 0.75 and 1, single 5 (all BD).

Good bolts and chain at the top.

Karl's book calls this 90', but we had to belay from the top of the blocks with our 60m rope. 70m rope recommended.

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