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Routes in Three Spires

Cleft Palace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gullet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patriot, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dale Ralphs, 2003
Page Views: 73 total, 9/month
Shared By: JaySnow on Mar 19, 2017
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

From DB's 2016 guide: "Start in the back of the alcove with the wooden bench and move left and up to chains. Bolted on lead." Clip your first two bolts (one on very low-angle, the other another 10 feet up) then start looking left. Do not clip the next two bolts higher up the alcove -- these seem to go nowhere at all! 7 or 8 more bolts along some nice classic Castle granite up to some solid 5.9 slab.

Location

Head up into the alcove from the wooden "benches." Watch rope drag on sharp granite.

Protection

9 or 10 bolts to chains.

Photos

Dale Ralphs took me and Dottie Cross to this route on 9/17/06. He had already established the route and used my new rope to rap from the top and do some maintenance, while Dottie and I climbed nearby routes, including Cleft Palace and a route named "Back from Iraq" (5.8). Apr 16, 2017