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Routes in Streaked Wall

Flugle-Urf T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Greetings from the Ground S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Liars, Beggars, & Thieves T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Man Afraid of His Horse S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Remnants of a Fine Woman S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Olson, BC Haney Circa 1991
Page Views: 85 total, 10/month
Shared By: BBQ on Mar 18, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Found on a very battleship gray area of the Streaked Wall. Starts on what looks like a featureless vertical slab of granite that actually has strangely deceivingly good holds if implored and swiped without anyone noticing. Good sport climbing moves and bolts for quite a few feet until the lying to your face climbing forces you to traverse to the left.

The diagonally-grabbed, digit robbing holds come to an abrupt halt under a crack that is too ugly to fully enjoy, yet oddly, enough has some large finger-like, crackish holds that allow for sick laybacking. Unfortunately, this tricky route robs you really good finger crack holds the entire way to the anchors but the climbing is still protected by good gear. Black Diamond C3's, small cams (up to about 0.75 and nuts) get swallowed up by this homely slit while you layback, stem and beg for hidden holds to appear right up until the anchors.

The fact that it can be top roped after leading Greetings From the Ground makes this route super fun instead of totally deplorable. However, with that said, an onsight of this climb would be a feather in your cap making it a tasty three star experience.

Location

Middle of the wall. 4th from left. Second from right and quite a few feet to the left of the flake that dominates the right side of the wall.

Protection

A normal rack of nuts and a fistfull of finger-sized cams. Bring 9 quickdraws for the bolts at the beginning and enjoy sporty anchors. Head pointing due to cowardice is acceptable if you have at least a 60 meter rope. However, a 70 might give you more peace of mind. Shares anchors with Greetings to its left.

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