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Freeloader Friday

5.12a/b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 24 votes
FA: Owen Summerscales
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Las Conchas > (J) The Sponge

Description

Bouldery route on excellent water-polished rock, located on the block just left of Pumping Huecos.
Start in the crack, pull onto a slab. A very enjoyable compression sequence through the bulge at, and just after, bolt 3 comprises the crux. Clip the 4th bolt, and top out to the picnic ledge. This is followed by 2 more bolts worth of easier climbing on huecos to the Pumping Huecos anchor. Can top-rope/hang draws after climbing the latter route — in fact, this climb has been top-roped in this manner for many years.
Gets afternoon shade.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Pumping Huecos)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Very fun movement and a reasonably sustained crux. If Pumpinig Huecos is 3.5 stars, this one deserves 3. Apr 23, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I was curious about something else at Las Conchas.. didn't find that.. Found this climb was listed in an old online guide oocities.org/yosemite/Trail… (W. Wehner, ca. '97) as below: (3) I am Broccoli (5.12c, toprope). Toprope the center face of the boulder just left of Pumpin' Huecos. Dec 30, 2017
Frank Stein
Picayune, MS
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Really nice route. Crux bulge felt v5ish, so seemed a little stout at 12-. Bolting through the crux is exciting, but safe with an attentive belay. From the last hard move, I ended up just above the first bolt with belayer who is 50 pounds lighter than me. Apr 23, 2018
Laeserguns
Lost Almost, NM
[Hide Comment] This face was TR’d by many, years before it was bolted, before Walt in ‘97, probably first by Bob D when he climbed Pumping Huecos in the early 90s. Certainly by Timy F, in the early 90s, who also TR’d multiple variations of the faces left of this route. Jun 28, 2020