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Routes in The Sponge

Freeloader Friday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hollywood Tim S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hueco Pareidolia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mad Dogs and Englishmen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napoleon's Angst S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pumping Harry S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pumping Huecos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sal's Neurosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sponge Problem, The V8 7B
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Owen Summerscales
Page Views: 457 total · 25/month
Shared By: Owen S. on Mar 18, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Bouldery route on excellent water-polished rock, located on the block just left of Pumping Huecos.
Start in the crack, pull onto a slab. A very enjoyable compression sequence through the bulge at, and just after, bolt 3 comprises the crux. Clip the 4th bolt, and top out to the picnic ledge. This is followed by 2 more bolts worth of easier climbing on huecos to the Pumping Huecos anchor. Can top-rope/hang draws after climbing the latter route — in fact, this climb has been top-roped in this manner for many years.
Gets afternoon shade.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Pumping Huecos)

Photos

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Josh Smith  
 
Very fun movement and a reasonably sustained crux. If Pumpinig Huecos is 3.5 stars, this one deserves 3. Apr 23, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
I was curious about something else at Las Conchas.. didn't find that.. Found this climb was listed in an old online guide (W. Wehner, ca. '97) as below: (3) I am Broccoli (5.12c, toprope). Toprope the center face of the boulder just left of Pumpin' Huecos. Dec 30, 2017
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
Really nice route. Crux bulge felt v5ish, so seemed a little stout at 12- Apr 23, 2018

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