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Man in Black

5.11c/d, Sport,  Avg: 3.1 from 16 votes
FA: Bruno Hache & Bob D'Antonio
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Dark Side

Description

Man in Black is a fun route with enjoyable, slightly overhung climbing on jugs to the first roof. At the roof, a tricky crux sequence involving a slot that is not as good as you would like, a deep two finger pocket, and a decent edge interrupt the easy climbing found below. After pulling the crux, pull onto a slab section with good holds, and pull past the second roof into a nice dihedral to clip the anchors.

Location

This route is located further left of routes Bonnie and Clyde and directly to the right side of Swinging Richards. The start of the route is directly below an obvious roof feature.

Protection

6 bolts with anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A view from the base.
[Hide Photo] A view from the base.
Working through the crux sequence on Man in Black.
[Hide Photo] Working through the crux sequence on Man in Black.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
[Hide Comment] Guidebook says 5.12a, but there's no way. Once you figure out the beta, it's like a V3 roof problem. 5.11c/d is fair. Mar 27, 2017
Allison Moran
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great example of a height-dependent grade. At 5'6", I was able to move through the crux over the roof with a dynamic move; however, my 5'2" friend had to find an incredibly difficult alternative. The route is 12a in the book and 11c in MP, but it probably depends on your body type. More importantly, it is an extremely fun route. Be sure to get on it if you're on this wall. Jul 17, 2017
James M
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Agreed there is no way this is close to 12a. Honestly after climbing it, I was questioning if it was even an 11. I think 11a or b is more fair. Mostly 5.10 climbing with one dyno to a good hold.

That being said, who doesn't love 5.10 with a solid dyno off a roof? Massively fun! Sep 7, 2021
Clay G
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Excellent climbing, punchy boulder problem to fun, juggy cracks. I agree that it's probably closer to 11- than + compared to most routes at this cliff. Sep 27, 2021
Bob D'Antonio
Ranchos de Taos, NM
[Hide Comment] FA...Bruno Hache & Bob D. Jan 26, 2024