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Routes in Upper Slabs & Dodge Dart Area

Dodge Dart T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romantica T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shapely Apes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ticktock T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Hanna, Karner, Bolach, Perkins, Packard, Gamage, & Whitelaw
Page Views: 72 total, 9/month
Shared By: Andrew Davidson on Mar 14, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Located just right of the waterfall dihedral. It is currently the longest route at Spring Mtn and was climbed and cleaned on several visits.

P1: 5.9 - 155' Begin 30' to the right of the waterfall, climbing a slabby rib with bolts. A steep short headwall is a lil tricky. Move up and left through waves and features. Another overlap notch lead to gear protected face climbing. Belay at low angle bench
P2: 5.8+ Steep moves crank up the center of the watercourse feature, leading to an overlap. Step up and locate an emerging rib (bolts) with some nice pure friction moves towards the top. This is the big bench, Move belay up and right about 60'
P3: 5.10b A steep start below a small roof, heads up throug a series of enjoyable layback flakes and overlaps up to 5.9. Step right to the clean and steep face. Belay at a comfortable stance below a small cedar grove.
P4: 5.10a Move left of trees to gain a nice hand crack in blocky terrain. Layback a flake and mantle to an exposed ledge. Delicate face climbing leads to an undercling flake. Step out and left to the Hueco Belay
P5: 5.9 Cruiser. A few face moves off the belay lead near a tree. A schist band with intersecting incut features has great exposure. leads to an alcove belay.
P6: 5.9 Climb up and around a corner. a single steep pullup leads to lower angled slab climbing. still within the schist band. This route tops out to the east of the large waterfall notch.

Pitch Descriptions by M. Hanna

A great Trip Report of Romantica and Other Side of the Tracks with pictures showing the nature of Spring Mountain

Location

From the Twin Cairns, continue up and right till you pass the Waterfall. The start of the route is right of the waterfall and Vitamin R.

Protection

Gear to 3"
Many long slings.
Bolted Anchors/Raps

2 Ropes for descent.

Photos

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