Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: apaches?
Page Views: 5,640 total · 89/month
Shared By: Paul Zander on Mar 14, 2017
Admins: Jared LaVacque, Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great easier trad route which would be a good intro to the area or way to build up your trad skills. The route generally follows cracks of all sizes straight up the dome on quality stone. Variations to every pitch have surely been done. There are numerous large ledgey areas perfect for napping or picknicking. Here's how we did it:

P1: Make your way up the double cracks. Belay on sloping ledge at the base of a chimney (1-2 inch pro for belay). 5.6+ ~80 feet. This pitch could be linked with the next.

P2: Chimney up to a giant platform. Step across a little gap and continue up a steeper weakness to giant treed ledge. Look out for sap and cacti up here. 5.7 ~120 ft

Move belay across ledges and boulders to the base of a nice varnished buttress with a dogleg crack

P3: Climb the angled crack as it turns up near a rounded arete/buttress. The crack disappears into a featured face where you can sling some heads. Continue up the buttress pulling a bulge on jugs. Belay on huge ledge. Aesthetic 5.6 pitch. ~100 ft

P4: From this big ledge you can finish a number of different ways, but the best option is the obvious hand crack just to the left of the window that goes by the name "The sneezes of 10,000 Butterflies". This gem is a bit of a sandbag at 5.7 in Tanya's guide, but is an amazing slice of moderate jamming. Where the crack breaks right, leave it and pull over the lip. Good idea to set up a directional anchor (or belay) here to protect your follower from a big swing. Crawl up jugs to the summit. 5.8 ~120 ft

There are some other cracks and flakes that go up the slabby face to the right of the window if you want to keep the grade at 5.7.

To get off you must execute a 10 foot 4th class downclimb (or sling a protruding block with your rope here for a rap/handline). Then walk along the ridge away from the wash (NW) for about 400 feet. Look for a gully down and left with a decently cairned trail. This trail will take you past Paleface slab down to the wash.

Protection

Gear from .4 to 4 with many slings. Emphasis on .75 and up. Know how to sling 'heads for pro and for building anchors.

Photos