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Routes in Zona de La Diagonal

Aprendiendo a Volar T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Arrastrate Perro T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
El Espolón de La Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 37 total · 2/month
Shared By: oncilla on Mar 13, 2017
Admins: Tony Yeary

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Description [Suggest Change]

The first pitch proceeds up a dihedral and then traverses across a face to arrive at the first belay station. There is a rusty bolt at the top of the dihedral before you start the traverse. As you traverse, there is one opportunity to place another piece of pro and then the rest of the traverse is a bit runout (looking at pretty good pendulum fall into a corner) until you finish the traverse and start climbing up toward the first belay station. Otherwise, the whole route is well-protected. The first belay station has a pair of bolts in good condition.

From the first belay station, go right along the ledge and climb the first diagonal crack to stay on La Diagonal. Simply follow the crack all the way to the top. Alternatively, you can continue to the right to pickup La Paralela (5.8). Also, you can traverse left out onto a very exposed face to follow El Espolón de La Diagonal.

With a 70 meter rope and two climbers you can combine the second and third pitches. However, with a shorter rope or a three-man rope team, it's best to leave it as a 3-pitch route. With a 70 meter rope and 3 climbers, I made it to the top with no rope to spare. At the top there is one glue-in bolt and some cracks for placing pro and rocks that you can sling in order to build your final anchor.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Nuts and a full set of Camalots from .3 to 4. The diagonal crack on the second and third pitches can gobble up cams depending on how much you're placing so doubles of .75 - 3 could be helpful.

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